BG Мозайков дамаск
Модератори: Djigit, Rigor Mortis
Правила на форума
Във "Майсторски форум" се обсъждат занаяти, методи, технологии, материали, свързани с изработката на ножове.
Моля, преди да бъде зададен въпрос да се прегледат съществуващите теми. Функцията "Търсене" на форума може да Ви е от помощ!
Във "Майсторски форум" се обсъждат занаяти, методи, технологии, материали, свързани с изработката на ножове.
Моля, преди да бъде зададен въпрос да се прегледат съществуващите теми. Функцията "Търсене" на форума може да Ви е от помощ!
Re: BG Мозайков дамаск
http://f3.s.qip.ru/1ZeOqJLI.jpgтаз акация как придоби този хубав кафяв цвят,стабилизирани ли е дръвцето?
Re: BG Мозайков дамаск
Стабилизирана.... условно.AVITOHOL написа:
Аз не си играя като Калата със смолите вече. Минах го тоя период. Просто е съхнала на корен. Дървото беше мъртво. След това я пропих леко с каноконлит. Не че пи кой знае колко, щото по принцип си е твърдо дърво и нямаше гнилоч. Накрая прешкурих с 320 и мат лак. Тъй че заслугата си е изцяло на дръвчето.Благодаря ви за отзивите.
Пътечка към сайта ми:............... http://www.mk-jewel.com/index-bg.html[/url]
Re: BG Мозайков дамаск
някой беше писал тук във форума че стаболизираната дървесина е като силиконовите цици
Re: BG Мозайков дамаск
Ами като ги искаш по-големи ще траеш.
Пътечка към сайта ми:............... http://www.mk-jewel.com/index-bg.html[/url]
Re: BG Мозайков дамаск
Браво г-н Кочев .
Re: BG Мозайков дамаск
Хм, Мишо, нали се сещаш за разните цветни мозайкови дамаски? Един руснак обяснява, че оцветява, като нагрява с газова горелка, почти до отпускане. Ти за азотни съединения беше говорил, по спомени...
Ред. Намерих си ги.
1. Heat coloring/bluing: The same as the colors you would see on a blade when tempering it. Its a thin film of oxide. The thickness of the oxide layer reflects/refracts light differently, causing different colors to be visible.
Pros: Easy to do, quick, minimal effort required on your part
Cons: Very fragile, wears off easily
2. Nitre Blue (bluing "salts" from Brownell's) Not really a true "bluing salt". Comes in a crystal form, melts at 300F, and has a working range to 900F. "Bluing" occurs in the 570-650F range. Product is used by itself, DO NOT MIX WITH WATER.
Pros: Likely the most durable of the "blued" finishes. Simply "cook" the piece/part you desire to color until the desired color is reached. Can also pull double duty as low temp heat treating "salts".
Cons: Requires a steel tank/pot, and a heat source that will achieve 570F+ for use. If used on a blade, the level of heat required for the blue range of colors will destroy the temper in a blade.
3. Baking Lacquers: These are various products available from Brownell's or other companies such as Gun Kote. To use on a damascus blade the blade must be etched to the point where can feel the topography with your fingertip. Completely cleaned, and then the lacquer applied like spray paint. (you can get Brownell's product in a "rattle can" but I have found that buying the liquid version and using a cheap airbrush gives much better results.) Spray the blade with two or more LIGHT coats, and allow it to dry for approx. 1/2 hour. Once dry, place in an oven set at 325F for 1/2 hour. Allow to cool, then using fine sandpaper (like 600 grit) with a hard backing stick, lightly sand to remove the baking lacquer from the high areas of the damascus. If sanded correctly, the baking lacquer will remain in the low areas of the damascus, giving those areas the color of the baking lacquer you used.
Pros: Very durable and tough. Can be removed with acetone prior to baking. After baking the only way to remove it is to sand it off. Available in just about any color you can imagine (Gun Kote will custom make almost any color you request). Using the gloss black will really make a damascus blade "pop".
Cons: Can be messy to use. Very strong odor that will give you a killer headache in very short order. If you get it on your clothes or on you, its generally there until it wears off. Requires that you do a lot of prep work, that the etch depth be just the right depth, and requires dry and bake time. Takes some practice to get the final sanding right. Doesn't work well on damascus that has large open pattern. (best suited for damascus that has a tighter/finer pattern)
Other coatings that render color: Titanium Nitride(usually a gold tone color), Boron Carbide (rainbow color like you see on the Onion Leek model production knives)
These types of coatings/coloring require that you send the blades out. Few if any knifemaker shops are equipped to conduct the operation necessary for them. These coatings/coloring were popular several years ago, mainly because they provided a very hard surface coating (somewhere in the Rc 70+ range if I remember correctly) and people thought it was a wonderful thing because of that hardness. Once people realized that the first time you sharpened a blade, with one of these coating applied, you were right back to the steel's hardness on the cutting edge, they quickly lost popularity.
The first three (heat coloring, Nitre Blue, and Baking lacquers) are the ones I have used, both alone, and in combination to produce the color on my Damascus blades/hardware. I saw right through the TiN and such coating from the beginning, and never wasted my money on them.
Ред. Намерих си ги.
1. Heat coloring/bluing: The same as the colors you would see on a blade when tempering it. Its a thin film of oxide. The thickness of the oxide layer reflects/refracts light differently, causing different colors to be visible.
Pros: Easy to do, quick, minimal effort required on your part
Cons: Very fragile, wears off easily
2. Nitre Blue (bluing "salts" from Brownell's) Not really a true "bluing salt". Comes in a crystal form, melts at 300F, and has a working range to 900F. "Bluing" occurs in the 570-650F range. Product is used by itself, DO NOT MIX WITH WATER.
Pros: Likely the most durable of the "blued" finishes. Simply "cook" the piece/part you desire to color until the desired color is reached. Can also pull double duty as low temp heat treating "salts".
Cons: Requires a steel tank/pot, and a heat source that will achieve 570F+ for use. If used on a blade, the level of heat required for the blue range of colors will destroy the temper in a blade.
3. Baking Lacquers: These are various products available from Brownell's or other companies such as Gun Kote. To use on a damascus blade the blade must be etched to the point where can feel the topography with your fingertip. Completely cleaned, and then the lacquer applied like spray paint. (you can get Brownell's product in a "rattle can" but I have found that buying the liquid version and using a cheap airbrush gives much better results.) Spray the blade with two or more LIGHT coats, and allow it to dry for approx. 1/2 hour. Once dry, place in an oven set at 325F for 1/2 hour. Allow to cool, then using fine sandpaper (like 600 grit) with a hard backing stick, lightly sand to remove the baking lacquer from the high areas of the damascus. If sanded correctly, the baking lacquer will remain in the low areas of the damascus, giving those areas the color of the baking lacquer you used.
Pros: Very durable and tough. Can be removed with acetone prior to baking. After baking the only way to remove it is to sand it off. Available in just about any color you can imagine (Gun Kote will custom make almost any color you request). Using the gloss black will really make a damascus blade "pop".
Cons: Can be messy to use. Very strong odor that will give you a killer headache in very short order. If you get it on your clothes or on you, its generally there until it wears off. Requires that you do a lot of prep work, that the etch depth be just the right depth, and requires dry and bake time. Takes some practice to get the final sanding right. Doesn't work well on damascus that has large open pattern. (best suited for damascus that has a tighter/finer pattern)
Other coatings that render color: Titanium Nitride(usually a gold tone color), Boron Carbide (rainbow color like you see on the Onion Leek model production knives)
These types of coatings/coloring require that you send the blades out. Few if any knifemaker shops are equipped to conduct the operation necessary for them. These coatings/coloring were popular several years ago, mainly because they provided a very hard surface coating (somewhere in the Rc 70+ range if I remember correctly) and people thought it was a wonderful thing because of that hardness. Once people realized that the first time you sharpened a blade, with one of these coating applied, you were right back to the steel's hardness on the cutting edge, they quickly lost popularity.
The first three (heat coloring, Nitre Blue, and Baking lacquers) are the ones I have used, both alone, and in combination to produce the color on my Damascus blades/hardware. I saw right through the TiN and such coating from the beginning, and never wasted my money on them.
"-Да помниш, че езикът на мъжа е като ножа – трябва да излиза от канията само да върши работа, а не за играчка. Щото е остър и може да се порежеш."
Re: BG Мозайков дамаск
Пътечка към сайта ми:............... http://www.mk-jewel.com/index-bg.html[/url]
Re: BG Мозайков дамаск
Струва ми се че това е опит за наподобяване на така нареченото /цветно закаляване / при огнестрелните оръжия . За гард помел или детайл . добре . За острие имам резерви ...
Re: BG Мозайков дамаск
Аха, ама има и химия....
"-Да помниш, че езикът на мъжа е като ножа – трябва да излиза от канията само да върши работа, а не за играчка. Щото е остър и може да се порежеш."
Re: BG Мозайков дамаск
Едно ноже стана преди няколко дена, ама от толкова дъжд, чак днес сколасах да го щракна.
Острието е ковано преди известно време.
Сега просто го одръжкарих.
Размерите му са 143 х 33 х 4 мм. Режещ ръб - ШХ15. Зоново калено.
Дръжката е Абанос и наплив от елша. Гард - дамаск. Разделители - Мелхиор и полимер цвят слонова кост.
Инкрустации - мелхиор.
Чорапчето............. Е не ми се говори сега за мръсни чорапи.
Острието е ковано преди известно време.
Сега просто го одръжкарих.
Размерите му са 143 х 33 х 4 мм. Режещ ръб - ШХ15. Зоново калено.
Дръжката е Абанос и наплив от елша. Гард - дамаск. Разделители - Мелхиор и полимер цвят слонова кост.
Инкрустации - мелхиор.
Чорапчето............. Е не ми се говори сега за мръсни чорапи.
Пътечка към сайта ми:............... http://www.mk-jewel.com/index-bg.html[/url]
Re: BG Мозайков дамаск
Изпипана работа 
Re: BG Мозайков дамаск
Страхотно се е получило. Красива изработка.
Няма идеални хора, само идеални намерения! Знанието не трябва да си отива с човека.